Shut off the local stop valves (or main) and open the tap to relieve pressure, then confirm flow stops. If it drips from the spout, replace the washer/O-ring or cartridge; if it leaks from the stem or base, swap the whole tap. Disconnect flexi hoses into a bucket, loosen the mounting nut, and lift the tap out. Clean the deck, fit the new tap, tighten evenly, and reconnect. Pressurize slowly, flush, and check for drips, wobble, or low pressure—next you’ll pick the right parts and fixes.
Key Takeaways
- Confirm the leak source; spout drips usually mean washer/cartridge, but stem or base leaks often require full tap replacement.
- Shut off the local stop valves (or main), open the tap to depressurize, and verify flow fully stops before disassembly.
- Gather essentials: adjustable spanner/basin wrench, bucket, cloths, new tap with flexi connectors, and PTFE tape only for tapered threads.
- Disconnect supply hoses, undo the mounting nut, lift out the old tap, then clean the hole and dry-fit the new tap aligned.
- Tighten connections evenly, open valves slowly, flush with aerator removed, then reinstall aerator and check for leaks and wobble.
Decide: Replace the Leaking Tap or Washer
Before you buy a whole new tap, confirm whether the leak comes from a worn washer/seal or from a failing tap body. Isolate the water supply at the local stop valve, relieve pressure by opening the tap, and verify isolation before disassembly.
If water drips from the spout when closed, a washer, O-ring, or ceramic cartridge is usually at fault; replacing it restores function without disturbing pipework.
If water tracks from the stem, bonnet, or base, or you see cracking, corrosion, or distorted threads, treat it as a body failure and plan a full replacement.
Do a Cost comparison: parts plus downtime versus a new tap. Also weigh Tap aesthetics if the finish is mismatched or pitted.
Choose a New Tap That Actually Fits
Where do most tap swaps go wrong? You buy a tap that doesn’t match your basin or plumbing.
Before choosing fixtures, confirm whether you’ve got a single-hole, three-hole, or wall-mounted setup, and measure the hole spacing (centres) and maximum deck thickness.
Check the spout reach and height so water lands in the bowl without splashing, and confirm handle swing clears the backsplash.
Match the inlet connection type and size to your existing supply lines, and verify the tap’s working pressure rating suits your system (mains or gravity-fed).
For code-compliant safety, pick a model with certified backflow protection where required.
Finally, weigh aesthetic considerations—finish, handle style, and spout profile—without compromising fit or compliance.
Keep packaging until you verify measurements at home first.
Tools and Parts to Replace a Leaking Tap
Although the exact kit varies by tap type, you’ll replace a leaking tap faster and safer if you stage the right tools and code-suitable parts: an adjustable spanner (or correctly sized open-end spanners), basin wrench for backnuts, slip-joint pliers, screwdriver set, utility knife, bucket and absorbent cloths, and a head torch for under-basin visibility.
Plus PTFE tape only for tapered threaded joints (not compression olives). Add new flexi connectors rated for potable water, correct length tails, isolation valves if required by local code, and replacement washers/cartridges matched to your model. Keep a spare compression olive and nut, plus fiber washers for flat-faced unions.
Use silicone grease on O-rings, not sealant. Clean limescale with vinegar for Tap maintenance and better Plumbing aesthetics.
Shut Off Water to the Leaking Tap
Before you loosen any fittings, you’ll shut off the water supply by locating the tap’s shutoff valve under the sink and turning it fully clockwise until it stops.
If there’s no local valve or it won’t close completely, you’ll shut off the main water valve for the building.
Then you’ll open the tap to confirm flow has stopped and pressure is relieved before you proceed.
Locate The Shutoff Valve
Need to stop that drip fast and safely? First, identify whether you’ve got local fixture stops or only a main shutoff. Look under the sink for two small angle-stop valves on the supply lines; they’re typically chrome or brass with oval handles.
If your plumbing is cold-climate protected, valves may be behind an access panel or wrapped in pipe insulation—peel it back carefully so you don’t tear the vapor barrier.
If you can’t find fixture stops, locate the building shutoff at the water meter, mechanical room, or where the service line enters the foundation. Clear the area, use proper lighting, and avoid forcing seized handles; sudden movement can crack fittings under water pressure.
Test Water Flow Stoppage
Once you’ve closed the fixture stops or the main shutoff, confirm the water’s actually off at the leaking tap. Open the tap to full cold, then full hot, and let it run until flow stops and pressure bleeds down. Verify there’s no trickle from the spout and no spray at the aerator.
If you have Water filtration under the sink, depressurize it per the manufacturer, then open the filtered-water dispenser to release trapped pressure.
Check supply lines and valve stems for seepage; tighten only by hand plus a quarter-turn if required, avoiding over-torque. Place a pan and towel beneath connections.
If any flow persists, reopen and reclose the stops fully or shut off the main and re-test before disassembly to protect Tap aesthetics.
Disconnect Lines and Remove the Old Tap
Verify the water supply is fully shut off, then open the tap to relieve residual pressure and confirm zero flow.
Using two wrenches to prevent twisting the valve body, disconnect the hot and cold supply hoses and catch any remaining water in a container.
Loosen the mounting hardware from below, then lift the old tap straight up to avoid damaging the sink deck or supply lines.
Shut Off Water Supply
Before you touch a wrench, where do you isolate the water? Locate the fixture’s hot and cold stop valves under the sink and turn each clockwise until fully closed.
If stops are missing or seized, shut off the home’s main valve. Open the tap to relieve pressure and confirm flow stops on both hot and cold; leave it open.
For water conservation and leak prevention, place a bucket and towel under the valve area, then check valves and supply tubes for seepage.
If a stop valve won’t shut off completely, don’t force it; close the main and plan to replace the stop.
Verify any nearby appliance shutoffs remain on as required.
Keep electrical devices clear of standing water.
Disconnect Hoses And Lift Tap
Next, disconnect the supply lines and free the tap for removal. Place a tray and towel under the cabinet to control drips.
Using two wrenches, hold the shutoff valve body steady while you loosen each hose nut counterclockwise to prevent twisting the valve or damaging soldered joints. If hoses are corroded, apply penetrating oil and wait; don’t force fittings. Cap or elevate lines to reduce leakage, then verify the valve stays off.
Disconnect the sprayer or pull-down quick-connect, if installed.
From below, loosen the mounting nuts or bracket with a basin wrench, then remove any retaining screws. Cut away old sealant at the deck.
Lift the tap straight up to protect finishes and Faucet aesthetics. Replace damaged Pipe insulation nearby.
Prep the Tap Hole and Mounting Surface
Although the new tap might drop into place, you’ll get a leak-free seal only if the tap hole and mounting surface are clean, flat, and sound. Shut off power to any nearby disposers, wear cut-resistant gloves, and light the cabinet well.
Scrape away old putty, silicone, and gasket residue with a plastic putty knife to protect Tap aesthetics. Degrease with isopropyl alcohol or a non-oily cleaner, then wipe dry.
Check the sink deck for cracks, chips, or rust; repair or replace the fixture if it’s compromised.
Verify the mounting hole is round and burr-free; dress sharp edges lightly with fine emery cloth. Dry-fit the base and confirm your mounting techniques will clamp evenly without rocking.
Install the New Tap and Reconnect Supplies
With the deck cleaned, flat, and burr-free, you can set the new tap and make watertight, code-compliant connections. Feed hoses and shank(s) through the hole, seat the gasket (or a thin, manufacturer-approved sealant bead), then align the spout square to the sink.
From below, install the washer and mounting nut, and tighten evenly to spec so you don’t crack vitreous china or deform stainless.
Connect supplies using new braided connectors sized to the stop valves and tap inlets. Start threads by hand, then snug with two wrenches—one backing up the valve—to avoid twisting pipes.
Don’t use PTFE tape on compression fittings; use it only on tapered threads if specified. Tag hot/left, cold/right for Tap care and Leak prevention.
Turn Water On: Fix Drips, Wobble, Low Pressure
Before you restore pressure, confirm both tap handles sit in the OFF position, the aerator is removed (to prevent debris from clogging it), and every supply nut is snug—not over-tightened.
Open the shutoff valves slowly, one at a time, and watch each compression joint and the faucet base for leaks. If you see seepage, close the valve, relieve pressure, then tighten the nut 1/8 turn for a Dripping fix—don’t exceed manufacturer torque guidance.
Turn the tap on to flush lines for 30 seconds; then reinstall the aerator.
If water pressure is low, verify both shutoffs are fully open and hoses aren’t kinked.
For wobble, confirm the mounting nut and bracket are centered and tightened evenly. Recheck after five minutes.
Conclusion
You’ve now swapped that leaking tap safely and code-compliantly: you confirmed replacement needs, matched the new fitting, shut off the supply, and installed with clean threads, correct seals, and proper tightening. Before you call it done, open the valves slowly, flush the aerator, and inspect every joint for seepage—because a hidden drip is a thief in the night. If you spot leaks, re-seat the gasket or reapply approved tape, then retest.